FAQ and Tips and Tricks for Aladdin Lamps

1. How do I clean the burners on the Aladdin lamps I buy?

What has worked for me on brass burners is a cleaner called "CLR" which can be found in most hardware stores. Take the burner apart and soak the parts in a 1 to 1 mixture of CLR and water. On real dirty burners you may want to leave them soak over night. Use a small brush to scrub them off the next morning and rinse with water. Once clean, dry all the parts with a hand held hair dryer. This heats up the parts and dries the cracks and crevices you can't reach! Now use Brasso (also found at your local hardware store or super market) to polish up the brass. It will look like new when you are done.

 2. What about my nickel burners?

Use easy off oven cleaner--the yellow top can. Take the burner apart and spray down the parts with the oven cleaner. Let them set for five or ten minutes and then wash then down with water. (Wear plastic or rubber gloves when working with it!) You may need to repeat this a couple of times, but the burners should clean up nicely. Again when done, use a hand held hair dryer to dry the parts. You can polish the burners up using Silvo--found right beside the Brasso in the hardware store or super market.

3. Funny, a hair dryer can be such a tool in lamp collecting . 

Try it for burners that are frozen in lamps. Remove the parts of the burner that you can, then take a hand held hair dryer and set it to high heat. Keep it just three or four inches from the burner and heat the burner up good. Turn the base slowly so you heat the burner all the way around. Use a hot pad holder once the burner is hot and see if it will unscrew from the lamp. Don't use a lot of force, it should turn out with normal pressure. If it doesn't let it cool down for a while and then repeat the process. I have never failed to get a frozen burner out of a lamp using this method. One caution---do not do this if the lamp is cold from being outside or with a lamp that has kerosene in it! (Be very careful when working on the glass jointed lamps if using this process.)

4. You will hear people talking about the "Amberina" in the red Aladdin lamps. 

This refers to that part of a red lamp that appears to be more amber than red--usually most noticeable on the outer most rim of the foot and traveling upward toward the font. The less Amberina and the darker the red color, the more desirable the lamp. The Amberina is best judged with the red lamp sitting on a white surface. Since you may often find them sitting on a dark table or other dark surface, try carrying a white sheet of paper with you. Computer printer paper works very well. Place the lamp on the white paper and you should easily see the degree of Amberina in the foot. The less, the better. This also works well for judging the color of other dark colored lamps such as amber or cobalt.

5. Where can I get small brushes to clean my burners?

Try a music store. Find where the school band rents or buys their instruments. You will find all kinds of brushes made to clean these instruments. They are made to reach into small cracks and crevices and to take a lot of abuse as well. And most of them don't cost a lot either!

6. What does a black light do and where can I get one?

A black light can be used to tell the "old formula" alacite from the new. The old formula will glow a yellowish green color under a black light, while the new formula will not glow at all. You can also use the black light to spot cracks or repairs. Most new glues will glow under a black light, as well as cracks in the glass. The only problem you will have is that most places where you find lamps aren't dark enough for the black light to work properly. You may need to try putting it under a table, or if they will allow you, take it to a closet or restroom where you can turn off the light and use your black light. Some antique malls have black lights available that they may let you use to examine merchandise or they may have them for sale. I have a small one that I purchased at the local "Brass Armadillo Antique Mall" that will easily fit into a purse or belt pack. I also have a larger one that I purchased through "Bass Pro Shops". The larger one was actually cheaper and gives off a lot more light but isn't quite as portable. It can however fit nicely into the trunk of your car and doubles as an emergency light since it has two blacklight tubes and two fluorescent tubes!

7. How do I tell a reproduction lamp from an old lamp?

This question is most often asked in reference to the tall and short Lincoln drape Aladdin lamps, which are the only two lamps reproduced by Aladdin or anyone else. The differences are simple to see if you know where to look. For the short Lincoln drapes, simply look at where the burner screws into the lamp--if there is a raised metal collar, the lamp is new. The tall Lincoln drapes take a little more examining. The key difference is that the old lamps were molded as one piece, while the reproductions were molded in two pieces and glued together. You will be able to see where the bowl is glued to the stem just above the filigree design of the stem. Also note that the mold lines on the stem and the bowl will not line up on the new lamps. If you turn the lamp upside down and look at the pattern on the bottom (commonly referred to as the "crows feet") you will see a pattern of faint lines running across the band containing the crows feet design. (They can be quite faint so you may need a magnifying glass.) The presence of these lines means the lamp is old, the absence means it is new.

 8. Ever wonder what you should use to glue Aladdin lamps like the Corinthians, Queens, or Orientals together?

I know I'll get a little heat from this one so lets put it to use. Try a hot glue gun and make sure to use a slow setting glue stick. I know that many people will say this isn't "original", but since it doesn't show, and allows you to take the lamp back apart by simply heating with a hair dryer--I say it's as close as you will get! The slow setting glue will allow you to position the foot and font better before the glue takes hold. It really doesn't matter what they were originally held together with, since you can't get whatever it was today anyway! I would shy away from glues such as epoxy because the fix is pretty permanent. Leave your options open just in case. I know if I ever get clumsy handling a lamp I would like to be able to separate the parts and fix what I broke! I would not recommend this glue for any other fixes on a lamp---just for gluing the base and foot on those lamps that were originally held together by a similar glue!!

9. A word of caution! 

Often when inspecting or cleaning lamps you will remove the oil fill cap and run your finger in the hole to see if you can feel any glue, or to make sure the glass hasn't been broken---be very careful and especially so on lamps that have recessed oil fills. (Where the oil fill cap screws into threads that are glued down in the lamp. (like the Venetians and Cathedrals.) The recessed metal threads may not cover all the glass and that glass is sharp! It pays to inspect this area for repairs or cracks but do it with a very light pressure to avoid being cut. Yes I found this out the hard way, and more than once--I'm a slow learner!!

10. One of the first things you will want to do when you get your lamp home is to clean it up. 

If you find a nice painted Orientale ( I know you are smart enough not to use a cleaner that will harm the paint right?) just wash it off in nice warm soapy water so you don't hurt the paint--everybody knows that huh? Well when you do this and your pretty green Orientale suddenly looks like you washed it in milk-- then dries down with a white opaque layer covering all that pretty green-- don't get hysterical. Get a shoe shine brush, and buff that lamp!! I'm not sure whether this phenomenon is due to someone putting auto wax on the lamp, or something in the finish from the factory, but it will buff back to a shine if you keep at it. It happened to me, and after my wife and I got over crying, I decided to try the shoe shine brush just in case it was wax. Sure enough it buffed out looking as good as new, but it was an experience I could have done without!

11. One thing a lot of people don't think about when out looking for Aladdin lamps, is to carry the tools with them that will help them judge their condition. 

I would suggest getting a belt pack--commonly referred to as a "fanny pack"--which will easily allow you to carry a few simple tools along with you. Invaluable tools are: a black light, a piece of white paper or cloth, a magnifying glass (the ones with a small light built in are great), and a small tape measure. I have also included a small flashlight that has the lens mounted on the end of a flexible cable. I can remove the burner from the lamp, then bend the cable at a 90 degree angle and put the lens inside the oil font. This allows me to backlight the glass bringing out any flaws in the color or glass! Having these tools with you will give you a real advantage in judging the condition of any lamp you might find.

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Eighty years ago a small boy on a Nebraska farm read and reread the Arabian Nights story of Aladdin by the flickering yellow light of an open flame "coal oil lamp." Years later that boy, now a man, found a lamp that erased the darkness with a soft white light. Naturally he named the lamp "Aladdin". An appropriate name: for this revolutionary boon to rural America seemed nothing short of magic in the intensity of its light. 
For those who lit the lamp, trimmed its wick and cleaned its chimney, or just enjoyed its friendly glow, the Aladdin lamp recalls many memories of childhood. By its soft light many boys and girls acquired the knowledge that helped them realize their dreams and aspirations. 
Later Aladdin brought this white light to every corner of the globe. For many it has been the only light of their entire life. Even when electricity comes there are a loyal few who profess to use the electric light only "to find a match" to light their Aladdin lamp. 
Now, you to can enjoy both the nostalgic warm glow and the practical lighting of an authentic Aladdin lamp. In this period of energy uncertainty, your Aladdin lamp with its light and warmth is a welcome companion in times of emergency. The noiseless, smokeless, odorless operation of your new Aladdin lamp allows it to enrich any occasion with its soft, serene glow. Complete operating and maintenance instruction follow in this booklet. READ THEM CAREFULLY. Then enjoy your Aladdin lamp.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING YOUR NEW ALADDIN LAMP

PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY BEFORE ASSEMBLING YOUR NEW LAMP.

1. Carefully unwrap all parts of you lamp.
   
2. IF YOUR LAMP IS EQUIPPED WITH A SHADE AND TRIPOD (SHADE HOLDER) PLEASE NOTE THAT TRIPOD ATTACHES TO LAMP BETWEEN BURNER AND BOWL. (Fig. 1) 
   
3. Screw burner into bowl by turning it clockwise. 
   
4. Remove LOX-ON® mantle from box by handling the wire frame. (Fig. 2) Do not touch mantle fabric. Fit mantle to burner gallery--the upper detachable part of the burner which also holds the chimney when assembled. (Fig. 3) Lock mantle into place by turning it clockwise. 
   
5. Insert LOX-ON® chimney into gallery (Fig. 4) and secure in place by gently turning clockwise. The chimney should fit snugly, but take care not to break the chimney by overtightening. IF YOU HAVE TROUBLE FITTING THE CHIMNEY INTO THE GALLERY, YOU MAY NEED TO BEND THE METAL TABS ON THE GALLERY OUTWARD SLIGHTLY. 
   
6. Place shade on tripod arms. (Fig. 5) If shade fits too tightly bend arms of tripod down slightly to accommodate shade. 
   
7. IF YOUR LAMP IS EQUIPPED WITH AN ELECTRIC CONVERTER and you wish to use the electric converter, follow the same instructions for assembly as those for the kerosene burner (Steps 2 and 3). Then screw in the light bulb you have chosen (we suggest you use a 60 watt bulb in your electric converter). Insert the chimney as described in step 5 above. The tripod will fit between the converter and bowl in the same manner as described above for the kerosene burner.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR LIGHTING AND OPERATING YOUR NEW ALADDIN LAMP

1. Fill bowl with ALADDIN lamp oil, or a good grade of fresh, clean, clear, refined K-1 Kerosene. NEVER USE GASOLINE OR OTHER DANGEROUS FUELS IN YOUR ALADDIN LAMP. The use of scented lamp oils is not recommended since additives in these oils can clog the wick and interfere with the correct operation of your lamp. 
   
2. ALLOW THE WICK IN THE BURNER TO SOAK IN THE KEROSENE AT LEAST ONE HOUR BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO LIGHT YOUR LAMP. This is very important since the wick must be adequately soaked with kerosene to burn properly. 
   
3. With a lit match, burn off the protective coating on the mantle by removing the chimney and touching the match flame to the bottom of the mantle (Fig. 7). Do not touch the mantle with the match stick itself, since this will damage the mantle. The protective coating will burn off; this is normal. Replace chimney in its original position over mantle into gallery (Fig. 4). 
   
4. Now you are ready to light your ALADDIN lamp. Turn gallery counter-clockwise and lift gallery, mantle, and chimney as a unit off of the burner. (Fig. 8A). MAKE CERTAIN THAT THE OUTER WICK TUBE (PLEASE SEE FIG. 11 AND BURNER DIAGRAM (FIG. A)) IS NOT REMOVED AND REMAINS SECURELY ATTACHED TO THE BURNER. Do not remove chimney from gallery. After the coating has been burned off of the mantle, always keep gallery, mantle and chimney intact as a unit. 
   
5. Turn wick up about one-eighth inch above outer wick tube and light wick (Fig. 8B). When flame has covered entire top edge of wick, carefully place gallery, mantle and chimney unit on burner and lock into place. Do not allow gallery to drop into position as this could injure the mantle. 
   
6. Turn wick up slowly until part of the mantle glows white and then allow it to stand for several minutes at this level to warm up. NEVER TURN THE LAMP UP TO BRIGHTEST LIGHT IMMEDIATELY AFTER LIGHTING AS THIS WILL CAUSE THE LAMP TO OVERBURN AND BEGIN TO SMOKE IN A SHORT TIME. After several minutes turn lamp up to a level of about 75 percent (3/4) of the brightest light output. After the burner has fully warmed up, the heat generated will cause the mantle to increase the intensity of its glow.
   A CORRECT LIGHTING CONDITION EXISTS WHEN YOU HAVE AN ILLUMINATED MANTLE WITHOUT POINTS OF ORANGE FLAME BREAKING THROUGH THE MANTLE. If points of flame break through the mantle, the wick is turned up too high and should be adjusted downward. 
   
7. Do not allow your lamp to burn dry. This would cause the wick to burn away and become uneven. If this should happen, reshape with provided wick cleaner (See Step 9 below) or replace your wick as needed to restore satisfactory performance. 
   
8. To put out light, turn wick down just below wick tube until flame disappears. Blow softly into burner (Fig. 9) or across top of chimney (Fig. 10) to insure flame is extinguished. Raise wick to check that lamp is no longer operating before leaving unattended. NEVER LEAVE YOUR LAMP UNATTENDED WHILE IT IS OPERATING. IF YOU MUST LEAVE THE ROOM, EXTINGUISH THE LAMP. 
   
9. Do not clean wick unless it has a formation of carbon crust on it. If it must be cleaned, remove gallery assembly and turn wick down until the top edge of the wick is even with the wick tube flange. (Please refer to burner diagram in Fig A). Then remove flame spreader (thimble-like part) from inner wick tube (Fig. 11). Insert wick cleaner (which is packed with your kerosene burner) into wick tube. (Fig. 12) Turn wick up until it presses gently against the cleaner. Turn cleaner clockwise slowly until wick is smooth. Never permit cleaner to ruffle or gouge wick as this will produce a ragged wick and high points of flame when lamp is lit (Read "Care of the Wick" in Item 5 under "Important Information"). 
   
10. When replacing wick, please refer to instructions supplied with replacement wick.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR ALADDIN LAMP
Read and Remember

1. NEVER USE GASOLINE OR OTHER DANGEROUS FUELS IN YOUR ALADDIN LAMP. UseALADDIN clear, unsented lamp oil or a good grade of fresh, clean, clear refined K-1 kerosene. Be sure that the container in which you keep your kerosene is kept clean at all times. Every time you install a new wick (or every six months), empty the lamp bowl, clean it, and put in fresh ALADDIN clear, unsented lamp oil or K-1 kerosene. If you want to use lamp oil, ALADDIN clear, unsented lamp oil is especially formulated for best operation of ALADDIN lamps. It can be obtained from your dealer. No other oil should be used. 
   
2. SOAK NEW WICK at least one hour before using lamp. 
   
3. HANDLE CHIMNEY, MANTLE, AND GALLERY AS A UNIT. This protects the mantle. Do not remove chimney from gallery except to clean chimney or to install new mantle and burn off mantle protective coating. 
   
4. ALLOW YOUR ALADDIN LAMP TO WARM UP as directed in step 6 of the instructions for lighting and operating your lamp found above. 
   
5. CARE OF THE WICK. Use your wick cleaner carefully. It is designed only to remove carbon and to keep the top of the wick smooth and uniform. If your wick has become too badly charred and too uneven, replace it. Remember an irregular and charred wick produces poor light. 
   
6. CARE OF THE FLAME SPREADER. This small thimble-like part which rests on the inner wick tube must be kept clean and free from dirt. If it becomes dented, replace it at once. 
   
7. FRESH AIR IS NECESSARY. Your ALADDIN lamp requires fresh air in order to burn with a blue flame which gives you a brilliant white light. You will get best results from your lamp if the room in which it is used is well ventilated. Never use lamp in a sealed airtight area. 
   
8. INSURE PROPER PERFORMANCE. Keep ALADDIN parts properly assembled. The flame spreader must be seated all the way down--the outer wick tube securely locked in place--the mantle properly and securely locked on the gallery--the chimney properly seated in the gallery and the gallery properly locked into position on the burner. 
   
9. HOW TO CLEAN SOOTED MANTLE. If your mantle should accidentally become blackened from carbon or soot, it may be cleaned by turning the flame low and letting the soot burn off slowly. An excessively blackened mantle may require replacement. 
   
10. DO NOT PLACE YOUR LAMP NEAR FLAMMABLE OR COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS. A distance of at least 30" from the ceiling to the top of the chimney of your lamp is recommended. For hanging lamps equipped with a heat bell, shorter distances between lamp and ceiling are acceptable as indicated in instructions for these lamps. Always allow adequate distance between walls and lamp so that excessive heat build up does not occur.